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Tim's Sri Lankan Holiday March 22nd 06

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This is a Review of Tim's Elephants & Spices Tour

The food was outstanding every where we went (Raj-Colonial style) with western options. 95% of the time it was a buffet.

Turtle Hatchery at Kosgoda
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The flight with Ethihad was out standing on the 777 out and good on the way back. The stop over in Abu Dhabi was nothing to write home about, but it did save us £100 each. We had a day near the airport at a very nice hotel to recover followed by 6 days in the NW near Sigiria rock (Habarana village hotel) and then 4 days down in Beruwala (Tropical Villas). Most of these hotels are part of the same chain. I'm only pleased that we chose to have A/c in all locations because otherwise it would have been unbearable.

 Must do things are the free trip to Kandy (which seems to be sponsored by the gem factory and the textile establishment) to Buddha's Tooth and the boat trip up the river from Beruwala combined with the turtle hatchery visit. I'm in two minds about the Safari as we saw nothing, however it was free.

One couple we were with took a taxi between sites to avoid the painfully slow bus ride and they had a great time. I would have liked to have visited "Little England" and Buddha's foot print but that was not on the tour either

 Keep an eye on your money. The holiday is exceptionally good value but they have way of getting more out of you. We spent £150 on extra excursions some of which I may have given a miss in hindsight. I also bough two suits for £140 each one of which was supposed to be Silk (from Kandy) and the other Cashmere (from Beruwala). The Silk one is Polyester and the Cashmere one real is Cashmere (pot luck maybe - may be not). I also got fleeced for £155 at the Luckgrove spice Garden by buying all there exclusive products. My partner also bough two certified 0.25 Carat Aquamarines (in Kandy) for £100.

Elephants Bathing
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High lights of the tour were the elephant orphanage, Luckgrove spice Garden (more below), Kandy Botanical Gardens, Sigiria and bird watching around the hotel (Habarana village hotel) . Low points were fighting our way through touts on arrival at Colombo airport, the drive to Beruwala from Habarana

Tim keeping cool on top of Sigira
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Some tips and tricks:

 1) You have no choice but to get a porter at the airport on the way in, so just accept it but tip only  £1 or 50 Rupees (let the bloke holler) and just get on the coach. You are then safe. Have the money ready and don't let him see any other money. 

2) The guide is your best friend and once you meet him on the bus (the guy in the airport who meets you is not your guide), he will look after you. Don't ask him to negotiate on your behalf or defend you in business negotiations, as he has more to loose by taking on the locals than you. A look in his face will tell you how to respond to beggars and touts.

3) The locals see tourists and westerners as manna and expect charity. Not much but something. They are prepared to offer a service and £1 or 50 Rupees (per person) is always gratefully accepted (except at the airport where the touts a greedy and prey on new arrivals naivety). The head waiter at the first hotel is also quite happy to take advantage of new arrivals naivety. The guide and the driver will also expect a tip at the end of the tour (300 Rupees each per person - it's nothing). At Sigiria, you will be besieged by touts. The best thing to do is to pick the tout you like best and let him do his stuff (show you the sights). The other touts will then leave you alone
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4) BUYING CLOTHES from local tailors can be very disappointing. They have cheap labour and they buy best quality materials but they have no idea of current western styles. If you want a suit, dress, trousers, take a sample (they can copy anything but they are not designers). Do check the fabric you want and make sure it is what they say it is. Cut a section off and set fire to it if necessary. DO inspect when you collect the goods as they take short cuts. Are the trousers hemmed properly, do the cuffs have buttons with button holes, are the button holes properly stitched without felt showing through. They will fix them (not possible in Kandy) if you raise the issue. Getting these things fixed in UK will cost as much as you paid for the garment.

 5) No doubt about it Luckgrove Spice Garden is great, but what they sell is really expensive. Red Oil Massage Balm £50 (never used it), Oil of Ulay (3 basic raw ingredients) £50 (never used it), 3 months Lipid low lime oil extract and wild Honey mix £50 (The only thing really worth buying). The banana chocolate 500 Rupees and Herb wine 3000 rupees are cheaper however. 

6) Imported booze costs money (wine, scotch), but the local beer is excellent and is available to you, the minute you walk into any of your hotels. The local speciality cocktail is called a CT (which simply means Cocktail) and is made with pineapple juice and coconut milk with a dash of local brandy. After a while you do get a little tired of them however.

 7) Sadly the excellent Ayurveda facilities at Beruwala (in the hotel) were not so fully used, as we had already been fleeced of all the money. If I had know they were going to be so good before we arrived, I would have saved £100 from the money I wasted at Luckgrove Spice Garden and spent it there instead. If you do have a massage £6/hour, make sure you wear a pair of underwear you can afford to throw away as the oil goes every where.

 8) No real need for Malaria tablets, but we were there before the rainy season. DO BE VERY WARY of swimming pools with cloudy water. It's not chlorine, it's out of control bacteria in the water. Infections from this water can cause you to have nasty problems which take months to get rid of.

 9) I had no idea before we went, but for a very small extra payment (£200) you can extend your holiday by two weeks. This is a great way to see the location after the hustle bustle, at your own pace.

 . Tim